Inspiration | 28th May 2024
Toile De Jouyn ajaton viehätys
Matka läpi historian ja muodin Toile de Jouy eli ”Jouyn kangas” sai alkunsa 1700-luvulla Versailles'n lähellä sijaitsevasta ranskalaisesta Jouy-en-Josas'n kaupungista. Tämä ikoninen kangas oli yrittäjän Christophe Oberkampfin keksintö. Hän perusti kaupunkiin tehtaan, jossa hän painoi idyllisiä maaseutu- ja paimentolaiselämää valkoiselle puuvillakankaalle.
Lue lisää:
Ensimmäiset painatukset
Ensimmäiset Toile de Jouyn painatukset tehtiin puumuottien avulla ja myöhemmin kuparirullilla. Yksivärisistä, sinisistä, vaaleanpunaisista, mustista tai vihreistä painatuksista tuli tyypillisiä tuotantoprosessin vuoksi, jossa jokainen väri vaati erillisen pesun. Oberkampfin alkuperäisiä malleja ei suojattu tekijänoikeuksilla, joten niistä tuli runsaasti inspiraatiota ja innovatiota muille painattajille Ranskassa, Englannissa ja Yhdysvalloissa.
Toile de Jouy Andiatalta
Nykyään Toile de Jouy on edelleen rakastettu kuvio, jota ylistetään sen eleganssin ja hienostuneisuuden vuoksi. ”Toile de Jouy on ajaton kuvio, joka korostaa eleganssia ja hienostuneisuutta”, sanoo Andiatan Matilda Morelius. ”Meidän versiomme kuvaa perinteistä ranskalaista elämää, luontoa ja eläimiä. Suunnittelimme kuvion muutama vuosi sitten, ja siitä on tullut klassikkomalli, jota käytämme jokaisessa mallistossamme.
The beginning
The production and import of cotton fabrics in France were banned by Louis XIV in 1686 to protect the French silk industry.
Visionary Christophe Oberkampf built a manufactory on the border between Switzerland and France and began printing cloth. It was only after the ban on the import of cloth and the prohibition of cotton were lifted in 1759 that he moved his business to Jouy-en-Josas.
The rise of Toile de Jouy
The popularity of the fabrics soared, partly due to Oberkampf's strategic decision to dry the textiles on the grass, where they caught the eye of wealthy buyers.
His reputation for treating his workers well attracted top talent, ensuring the finest quality in his prints.
Queen Marie Antoinette herself was enchanted by Toile de Jouy. She visited Oberkampf’s factory several times, bringing her kids along to see how the fabric was made.
Emperor Napoleon also liked the fabric, and in 1806 he gave Oberkampf the Legion of Honour for his work.
The revival of Toile de Jouy
Despite a dip in popularity during the 19th century, Toile de Jouy experienced a resurgence in the 20th century.
Renowned fashion designers like Christian Dior, Vivienne Westwood, and Jean-Paul Gaultier revitalized the print, incorporating it into their collections.
Dior, in particular, created fashionable dresses using the iconic castle wallpaper fabric.
The beginning
The production and import of cotton fabrics in France were banned by Louis XIV in 1686 to protect the French silk industry.
Visionary Christophe Oberkampf built a manufactory on the border between Switzerland and France and began printing cloth. It was only after the ban on the import of cloth and the prohibition of cotton were lifted in 1759 that he moved his business to Jouy-en-Josas.
The rise of Toile de Jouy
The popularity of the fabrics soared, partly due to Oberkampf's strategic decision to dry the textiles on the grass, where they caught the eye of wealthy buyers.
His reputation for treating his workers well attracted top talent, ensuring the finest quality in his prints.
Queen Marie Antoinette herself was enchanted by Toile de Jouy. She visited Oberkampf’s factory several times, bringing her kids along to see how the fabric was made.
Emperor Napoleon also liked the fabric, and in 1806 he gave Oberkampf the Legion of Honour for his work.
The revival of Toile de Jouy
Despite a dip in popularity during the 19th century, Toile de Jouy experienced a resurgence in the 20th century.
Renowned fashion designers like Christian Dior, Vivienne Westwood, and Jean-Paul Gaultier revitalized the print, incorporating it into their collections.
Dior, in particular, created fashionable dresses using the iconic castle wallpaper fabric.
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